Anyways, as I was mentioning, I was looking over the last frame and noticed a few things were just not right. First, the 1/4" balsa I used just looked too thick. The scale was accurate as it would have been 1 1/2" tubing but I just didn't like the thickness, and in the actual car I am still debating 1" tubing or 1 1/2" tubing. tubing. So decided to go with 3/16" balsa sticks to be an in between. I like the the look better.
Secondly, I was not happy with the triangulation of the frame so I redid it, with a much wider stance now for the batteries. I can now fit more banks of car batteries in case I need more.
The last frame I built I did without using the technique of pinning. This time around I pinned the frame as one of my co-workers is an avid model maker of model airplanes and he suggested it. It was so much easier to accomplish what I wanted.
So you wonder what pinning is. Well here it is.
Since I built this all digitally it was easy to print up a scaled top view frame on paper. I just printed off the base frame first at 1:6 scale. I then basically just traced over the printout with the balsa wood sticks, cutting the lengths directly on the printout. To keep the pieces steady and tight against each other I pinned down lengths of scrap balsa against the frame lengths and glued the frame pieces in place. To make sure everything was square I used a small set square just for the added piece of mind, because if something was not perfectly square I would end up with a bent frame.
For a better explanation here is the link I used.to learn how to pin properly.PINNING TECHNIQUES.
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Here is the new frame. It certainly looks prettier than the last version. |
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To give a sense of proportion, here is the frame in place with the driving position in rough place. |
I think I will continue doing this during my lunch hour at work. It is definately a better place to do it with more room, less pets, and less distractions.
Till my next post.
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